January in Paris

It was a dreary month, but not a bad one at all. Although I hear that the best is yet to come in February, weather-wise. Still, I was grateful to have a total of two somewhat sunny days, and a pretty snowfall to shake things up. While it doesn't get as bitingly cold as the Northeast US, it was nice to get some cozy sweaters out and layer on the knitwear. The days are getting noticeably longer and I'm itching to get out.

Two things that got Parisians going: The winter Soldes and King Cakes. The Soldes were impressively crowded and hectic as people scrambled for discounted everything:

While I don't know any hard facts, it seems like they are more shopping-mad here than they are in New York. While I see it as a way to depart with money in exchange to fill a need, Parisians shop for sport and for the fun of it.

The naked mannequins abound.

But some of the clothed ones left me unimpressed.

This swimsuit in the windows at Galleries Lafayette left me a bit awe-struck. Once you see a lumpy and bloated Native American on a swimsuit, it can not be unseen. Just try.

Despite questionable tastes of the window-dressers, the interior of GL is one of my favorites. A huge, stained-glass dome tops the main room, making it a lighter and airier place than most department behemoths.

I feel like it is a pretty appropriate shrine to fashion, and while I have yet found anyone who might actually help me in there, it's become one of my favorite Soldes haunts for potions and lotions and really nice bedding, along with the usual clothes and handbags and really chic accessoires.

All of January, the post-holiday diet is wrecked by the Galette des Rois glut. Traditionally, they are supposed to be for the epiphany, but some reckless soul deemed them fit for all Janvier long.

The only other King Cake I have made or tasted was that of the New Orleans style. It's a little much. It's basically buttery brioche stuffed with cheesecake filling, with sugar glaze and colored sugar on top. My teeth ache just thinking of it. It's fantastic. But alas, like all great things found in America, it is a bastardized version twisted and retold until it is unrecognized from its original form.

(picture ganked from Jeff Schrier)

I tried my hand at making a traditional French one using this recipe. It was excellent. In France, it is puff pastry filled with almond frangipane or marzipan. They aren't as law-suit happy here as they are in the states, so it is still okay to put a bean or a tinker toy in the cake for someone to be deemed king or queen for the day.

Some bakeries had gaudy candied-fruit topped versions, which is as close to the New Orleans version as I could find.

Any chance I'm anywhere near my favorite pastry place, I can't resist trying one of everything.

It made the month seem a little bit sunnier.

Soldes!

Twice a year, in July and January, Paris because more of a zoo than usual. It's time for Soldes! The twice-annual state regulated clearance sales create a shopping frenzy. Even my American ex-pat friends, with the dollar weak to the Euro, take advantage and splurge.

Department stores have bouncers and roped off lines as people go in for discount Dior and Chanel. Shoe departments look like someone might lose an eye. Fitting rooms are a tangle of bodies and silk and linen as everyone jostles for that perfect, and cheaper than usual, designer piece.

Every store window announces it, and sometimes leaves the manequins naked just to prove a point.

Places like Hermes become madhouses, with limits on how many scarves you can buy and showing up to the sale with something already from Hermes being worn. There's a whole new set of tourist in town, specifically here for the designer sales.

I took advantage to pick up some more kitchen items that I was lacking- a whisk and spoons and a cheese grater. I know, boring, right? But I also found a really cute silk dress for an astounding 10 euro that I'll be showing off soon enough. Aside from that, my taste run a little too rich, even with the soldes. A silk scarf at 40% off was still 700 Euro, a cashmere and merino blanket for 900, cushy oversized bath towels that cost 150 Euro a piece, shoes discounted at 70% would still reign as the most expensive shoes I've every worn. The department stores here are a bit much for me to handle. I'm keen on staying away.

I found it was also a good time to pick up a few necessities, like sunscreen and lotions. It's kind of like the city is having a rummage sale. If you go early in the day, the crowds aren't all that bad either.

As the month grinds on, the discounts get bigger, but the stock noticeably sadder. The enviable fall collections start becoming more of the focus.

All the major department stores and even some of the bigger grocery stores have gorgeous yarn departments and notions. The summer yarns are all way discounted as well. I couldn't resist picking up some cherry-red Rowan Calmer (discontinued! The horror of it all!) for just a few Euros a skein.