Holiday Paris

Paris has been stepping up her game in some unwinable tacky war lately. I walked past Notre Dame the other day and was astounded by the tree out front, which was just covered in lights in a way which made it look like a volcanic eruption science project gone wrong. It didn't even justify a picture because it burned my retnas so badly.

The lights! The Christmas markets! The unexplainable animatronics! The neon! It's just weird. They love Christmas here more than anything.

But, oh, so sparkly.

I've been spending a lot of time out, mingling with the crowds. Unlike NYC where everyone gets stressed out and sick of Xmas, they really seem to love this time of year here. I mean, foie gras and Champagne are everywhere, people gather and party a lot, and it's almost impossible to walk down the street without crowds darting to window shop as everyone goes all out to decorate and put on an impressive show.

Perhaps for the first time, but a non-Parisian was honored quite visibly on the side of the Eiffel Tower lately:

It almost gives Las Vegas a run for its money.

FO: Eiffel Tower Shawl

Hey, did you guys see this yet? It's pretty cool. I mean, if you like cool things.

Paris, more than any other place I've ever been, is defined in so many ways by its main monument. I kid about them striking oil with it one of these days, but you never tire of staring at it. It's an amazing, iconic piece of engineering. Originally, it was not meant to stand for very long, and was just a monument for the World's Fair to be torn down after the crowds have gone home. However, some genius knew an opportunity when they saw it and it remains as the most visited tourist attraction on the planet. It graces a whole lot of tourist tchotchkies and sells a lot of hotel-room views. You can't even fathom a Paris without it.

The first time I saw it up close, I honestly couldn't believe that it was painted brown.

For whatever reason, in my head, I thought it was inky black.

I thought that A Fitting Tribute to knit a shawl inspired by the gorgeous scrollwork in pink.

The pattern is from Natalie Servant. It's well-written and totally unique. It's a pretty big shawl, with lots of stockinette stitch to eat up yardage. I used 750 yards of laceweight.

I do need to block it out a bit more. It could use a more drastic point, and I just couldn't get the shape right with my improvised blocking technique.

The yarn is a skein of merino Sanguine Gryphon Mithril in the "Woman under the Willows" color. It's not my favorite. It's really tightly overplied, so it's hard to get even tension and the yarn tends to twist itself into a tangle every few feet. Annoying. I don't see it pilling anytime soon, so I'm hoping it will wear well. I did frog back quite a bit at one point and the yarn is no worse off for it.

It is a lovely pattern though and I had fun making it. It's fairly mindless for a while and then you get to make all the pretty scroll work. It was a good pattern to travel with, and I'm happy with it.

14 Juliet

The festivities just didn't seem quite as festive this year. Perhaps it was because the holiday fell on a Sunday this year, and it usually means a 3+ day weekend to celebrate. The dances that the fireman put on the night beforehand were packed (I had to tell a french friend please not to refer to them as "fireman's balls") and the crows and pigeons around town felt slightly ill at ease as fireworks and firecrackers were lit off all weekend.

Decided to forego the parade down the Champs-Élysées in favor for a BBQ in the suburbs. However, plans were derailed by the train wreck on Friday, and the train out to the 'burbs would not be running. Scrambling last minute for something to do, I packed a picnic and headed out to the Parc de Flora for an afternoon at the Paris Jazz Festival.

They do love their jazz here in France, and most artist who get very little love in the states will draw adoring crowds in Europe. Trombone Shorty was no exception. A real New Orleans style funk jazz band got everyone on their feet and dancing for hours. No matter that he ran out of material when they called him back with rabid enthusiasm for his fifth encore. The spirt was there, and he was loved. Leave me alone, I'm a throwback and I love the Jazz Music and my grandfather and I will sit around and listen to Pre-war jazz on the turntable and he tells me about the bad old days and I actually listen. This is my music.

The Parc is also a lovely place to meander around. Lots of gardens and bees and butterflies and quiet wooded paths.

They keep a small herd of Ouessant sheep to keep the lawns trimmed. They were quite warm and just sleeping in the shade. Lazy, good-for nothing lawnmowers.

When the sun started to set, we headed off to watch the fireworks. Not wanting to be elbowed to death again this year, we opted for a posh party from a hotel room with a view in Montmartre.

The show was spectacular. What a gorgeous city.

April in Paris

Yes, I am aware that it's May. I'm behind, and Count Basie just didn't write the song for any month but April, now did he.

The weather in April is a bit manic- we get these really sunny bright days that the wind will be incredible, and a constant barrage of rain and hail will catch you by surprise, because the sun will be shining the entire time. Ah, Paris. A crafty vistor will have an umbrella at their side the entire time they are here.

The gardens become lovely places- the hidden courtyard at the Petit Palais is one of my favorites, if only because you can run in and use the bathroom if you are in the need.

My favorite thing about the Louvre is going on a Friday night. They are open late, and it's as quiet as you are going to get in the most visited museum in the world.

But Paris is really the greatest city if you love walking around and exploring. I'm still surprised at what I find.

At night, the area around the eiffel tower swarms with tourist and pushy souvenir-hawkers with their glow-in-the-dark handfuls of nighttime wares. You see dozens of them, like fireflies, darting from one group to the next with their wares.

A sure sign of spring: Swarms of Beekeepers in the gardens.

And the models in very little clothing posing for the camera:

Another place to catch a free view of the city is the rooftop of Galleries Lafayette.