One of my favorite things about Las Vegas is all the bright lights.
It's tacky as hell.
Fremont Street was made into a pedestrian walkway with a covered awning that you can zipline through. There's about 20 bands playing really loudly the length of the street and blaring out of bars. It's overwhelming.
I especially love some of the vintage neon signs that they preserved as sort of a museum of neon awesomess.
The downtown area maintains some of the glorious seediness that was seems lost on the Disneyfication (just like Times Square!) of the Strip. It's still there though. The crowds downtown are completely different- a bit less glamorous, but die-hard regular visitors who stand by their favorite gambling dens. You can still get hotel rooms for less than $50 in this area, and in some cases, much less. My love of nostalgia embraces this part of Vegas.
Double self portrait on Freemont St: