I guess I survived a BYOTP vacation.
I would do it again in a heartbeat. Being a little uncomfortable is a small sacrifice for all the amazing things I got to see and do.
It would be hard to travel on a budget here. While it was hard on the wallet to (even camping was expensive!) we did splurge and get a really excellent seafood dinner our last night there.
While traditional Norwegian cuisine was a rarity in Olso- there was mostly continental European restaurants and lots of Sushi restaurants- the seafood was some of the freshest and best-prepared I've had. Mussels and clams and shirmp and, of course, salmon were tasty as hell.
Another culinary discovery I made was that of Brunost. It's brown cheese, a specialty of the region. It's pretty much the opposite of the raw milk cheeses that I love and pine after. The milk and whey is boiled until the water evaporates and the milk sugars caramelize, turning it brown and making it unusually sweet and addictive, and would almost melt in your mouth. It was served at every breakfast in a big brick that you slice off with a cheese slicer. I looked forward to it every day.
My hike was fueled by brunost.
Now that my ankle bones can be seen clearly again (my temporary cankles were quite alarming) and my feet aren't so tender, and AirFrance managed to get our bags to us after a few days, life is good and I'm ready to hit the road and rails again.
This time there will be toilet paper.